As one of the most prevalent vehicles for popular culture, film has long served as an enduring source of inspiration for countless fashion designers and brands. Yet the practice of designing garments — or even operating an entire brand — using cinematic techniques, thereby completely dissolving the boundaries between the two mediums, remains uncommon. XLIM stands as one such practitioner. This Seoul-based brand employs a cinematic approach to fashion, seeking to rewrite the narrative of contemporary design.“Released” in 2021, the multi-layered sci-fi work XLIM was directed by founder Dohee Kim. His background in film studies during university is vividly reflected in the brand’s operations, most directly through the use of cinematic terminology like "Episodes" and “Synopses” to name its ever-expanding collections.XLIM’s latest collection is EP.8 “After The Bloom,” released in the latter half of last year. After eight seasons of evolution and refinement, XLIM has distilled its distinctive visual language — seamlessly blending futuristic elements with familiar aesthetics through the fusion of technical functionality and unique distressing techniques. Yet to unravel the deeper meaning behind the fabrics, you may need to invest more time.”Rather than explaining everything upfront, it’s built through layers.”Kim recently brought XLIM’s second collaborative collection with Jakob Hetzer to Shanghai. Taking this opportunity, Hypebeast invited Kim to participate in our latest “Essentials” feature, where he shares his daily must-haves and more behind-the-scenes stories about XLIM.Vintage Cartier Tank Must de Vermeil Black Onyx Dial GMThis is my first Cartier watch. 
It’s a vintage piece with an all-black dial and a subtle blue accent. I originally wanted to buy a watch just for myself, and I ended up choosing this one purely because of the color. The glass is cracked, but I continue to wear it as it is.XLIM EP.8 SYNOPSIS 01 WALLETThis is a recent piece released by XLIM.
 These days I use cards more often than cash, and since I carry quite a few cards, I wanted something that fit that reality. I was directly involved in designing it with that usage in mind.Reminence EYE WEAR GlassesThese were the first glasses my mother gave me after I became an adult.
 They’re quite old now, but that’s exactly why they feel meaningful—they carry the marks of time and my own journey. They’re still my favorite pair.Handwritten CardThis is a card I received in December. 
It feels especially meaningful because it came in the final month of 2025, and receiving a handwritten card after a long time made the experience feel very analog and personal.Fueguia Bitácora de ComposiciónI bought this perfume while visiting a shop with a friend. 
I’ve always liked fragrances, and this was a brand I hadn’t encountered before. Each scent was distinct on its own, and I was drawn to the idea of them being offered together as a single package, which is why I chose it.Hi, please introduce yourself to the Hypebeast readers!Hi, I’m Dohee Kim, the founder and creative director of XLIM.XLIM always approaches its collections with a cinematic fashion method. If you had to abstract XLIM into a genre of film, what would it be?If I had to abstract XLIM into a genre of film, I would describe it as a layered science-fiction film.What is your favorite film, and has it influenced XLIM’s design philosophy?If I had to abstract XLIM into a film, I’d say it’s closer to a movie structured like Inception—one that focuses less on surface imagery and more on what’s happening underneath.Rather than explaining everything upfront, it’s built through layers. Meaning isn’t immediately obvious, but gradually revealed through experience and repetition. You don’t need to fully understand it at first; the depth becomes clearer the more time you spend with it.In that sense, XLIM’s cinematic approach isn’t about spectacle or dramatic moments, but about immersion, structure, and a quiet, intentional complexity.What does your creative process look like? Do you typically start with fabrics, or with sketching, mood boards, or even music and imagery?My creative process usually starts from everyday life.
Rather than actively searching for inspiration, I tend to pick up small thoughts that come naturally from daily moments.I then bring those recent ideas together with notes or images I saved in the past.
They may come from completely different times, but placing them side by side often leads to new directions and development.Fabrics, sketches, and mood boards come later in the process.
There isn’t a fixed order—I let the ideas slowly take shape as they connect and evolve.So for me, creativity is less about finding something new, and more about connecting everyday thoughts and letting them grow over time.The latest EP.8 collection from XLIM appears more visually restrained and minimalist, with a more controlled color palette. Is this a quiet reflection after the climax, or the prelude to a new conflict?I believe a brand needs to maintain a consistent image over time, but at the same time, it should continue to question itself and introduce new tensions.EP.8 isn’t meant to be a quiet ending after a climax.
It’s more about turning inward—holding back visually while building subtle tension for what comes next. On the surface, it may feel restrained, but beneath that calmness, there’s an ongoing exploration of new directions and conflicts.In that sense, EP.8 sits between closure and beginning.
It’s a moment of control and reflection, but also a deliberate transition toward the next phase.You often select and experiment with different materials. Could you tell us about one particularly memorable experiment?One experiment that stands out to me was testing how differently a fabric could behave, even when it appeared very simple on the surface.Rather than searching for materials that looked special, I worked with familiar fabrics and repeatedly explored how their feel and character changed depending on processing, layering, and real-life conditions of use. It was interesting to see how the same fabric could give completely different impressions through variations in construction, lining, and the effects of wear and friction over time.That process reminded me that what matters more than the material itself is how and where it’s used.
For XLIM, material experimentation isn’t about creating novelty for its own sake, but about finding ways for fabrics to function better and gain meaning through time and use.You’ve always emphasized that XLIM is a “collective of creators.” How do members from diverse backgrounds like architecture and film influence the final form of the garments?I think the best part of bringing together different creators is being able to look at a single object from multiple perspectives.Stylists, designers, and creators from various fields all bring their own past experiences and current ways of thinking, and reinterpret the same idea in different ways. When looking at the same garment, someone might focus on styling and context, while someone else thinks about structure, proportion, or how it’s used. Those differences naturally lead to conversations, and the garment becomes more layered and dimensional through that process.Rather than being shaped by a single viewpoint, XLIM’s pieces are formed through the overlap of different sensibilities and experiences.
That’s why the final result always carries multiple layers of thought and interpretation.XLIM’s team isn’t very large. How do you maintain a stable, consistent, and high level of creative output with limited resources?I think it comes down to constant communication—the small, everyday conversations we share.Those conversations might seem minor, but they’re actually the most direct way to understand someone’s current mindset, emotions, and the ideas they’re thinking about. Through daily exchanges, you can sense the overall mood of the team and where everyone’s attention is naturally moving.By maintaining that flow of conversation and repeatedly talking about XLIM’s direction and future themes, a shared understanding builds over time. That’s what allows us to stay stable, consistent, and focused creatively, even with a small team.How does your perspective as a stylist influence XLIM’s design approach?It’s an interesting question. As I’ve mentioned earlier, within the broad category of clothing, experiences from different past roles often lead to new ways of approaching design.Coming from a stylist background, I tend to think less about a garment as a standalone object and more about how it will actually be worn — how colors work together, which pieces feel genuinely necessary, and how an item fits into a real wardrobe. I naturally consider context and combination rather than just individual impact.Because of that, XLIM’s design process places a lot of weight on real situations and styling scenarios.
Instead of aiming for pieces that simply look striking on their own, we focus on creating garments that integrate naturally into daily wear and maintain balance over time.If you had to style a look using XLIM pieces mixed with items from other brands, which brands would immediately come to mind?Lately, rather than specific brands, I’m more drawn to vintage pieces with a long history.Mixing XLIM with older vintage items allows for more flexibility and variation in styling. Instead of focusing on brand identity, I find that the time, wear, and context embedded in vintage garments create a more natural and layered look when paired with XLIM.XLIM has once again collaborated with Jakob Hetzer on a joint project centered around “Conversation.” How does this “Conversation” differ from previous iterations?My relationship with Jakob goes back quite a long time, and I’ve always appreciated the sense of care and thoughtfulness in the way he approaches both thinking and design. Because of that shared history, this iteration of “Conversation” feels slower and more in-depth than before.If our earlier conversations were about learning each other’s language and sensibilities, this one felt more like a natural exchange built on an already established trust. We weren’t trying to convince or explain ourselves; instead, we shared our thoughts and attitudes honestly and respected the differences between them.That’s why this conversation feels quieter, yet more concentrated.
In this collaboration, the process and the mindset behind it mattered more than the final outcome. The subtle shifts and sense of balance that emerged along the way are what make this “Conversation” feel distinctly different from previous ones.In recent years, Korean brands have remarkably emerged on the world stage. What do you think are the reasons behind this?I think there are several reasons, but at the core it comes down to a shift in environment and mindset.Korean creators have grown up absorbing a wide range of cultures and influences in a relatively short amount of time. Through that process, many have developed their own distinct perspectives rather than simply following global trends. More brands are now expressing ideas that come directly from their personal experiences and surroundings, and that honesty resonates internationally.Where do you think the most essential “Koreanness” of XLIM lies? And do you wish to amplify or downplay this characteristic?I don’t think the Koreanness of XLIM lies in specific images or cultural symbols. 
It feels closer to an attitude and a way of working.Having grown within a fast-changing environment, there’s a constant sense of adaptation, along with a sensitivity and quiet tension that naturally comes from that experience. These qualities are embedded in XLIM — not in an obvious way, but through how we handle details, balance proportions, and make restrained decisions.For me, Koreanness isn’t something that needs to be emphasized or declared.
It’s something that quietly accumulates through the process and becomes felt over time, rather than explicitly shown.Click here to view full gallery at Hypebeast